Port Fonda

The Place

Chef Patrick Ryan is a culinary pioneer. His innovativeness has also made him a nomad, but not in the traditional sense.  While his profession has led him to New York and Chicago, among other places, he gets his nomad-like quality via his 1973 Airstream, which he has converted to a mobile eatery.

Yes, a restaurant on wheels.  This wild idea to buy an old trailer was a high risk, high reward gamble but his rolling restaurant is quickly gaining a cult-like following and is now the most difficult reservation to get in town.  Combine a mobile kitchen serving Mexican fare and blasting old school hip hop music with a passionate chef and a damn entertaining evening awaits.

While Port Fonda is not the first food truck in Kansas City, it has to be the first to offer a sit down meal where the chef doubles as the host, waiter, busboy and entertainment.  One table, two reservations per night on Fridays and Saturdays only.   However, they have an incredible walk-up crowd that seemed to be never ending on this particular night.  But dining inside "El Comedor" (as fondly named by Chef Ryan) is where it's at.  We felt pretty cool being inside as everyone stared in amazement at our good fortune.

The Food

Studying under Rick Bayless, owner of Frontera Grill and Topolobampo in Chicago, I can only imagine how difficult it is to not want to open an authentic Mexican restaurant. If you're going to learn how to cook Mexican food in the United States, Rick Bayless is who you go to.  While Kansas City has a lot of "Mexican" restaurants, many lack authenticity.  Chef Ryan mentioned that while he can go to town on Americanized Mexican food, it's just not "real".  And that's what he wanted to show Kansas City. True Mexican food.  Our four course meal was just a taste of his prowess.

Elote

Port Fonda's take on Elote, which is corn on the cob traditionally sold as street food in Mexico. Sweet corn, crema and onions. Paired with pork belly and topped with Cotija cheese and hot sauce.



Just a perfect example of Chef Ryan's cooking style.  Everything has balance. If the dish is spicy, it's paired with something sweet or savory to cut the heat.  While Mexican food is spicy, it's not supposed to be a melt-your-face cuisine.

Chilaquiles

Chilaquiles are a classic dish in Mexico. Corn tortillas cut into quarters and sauteed with Salsa de Molcajete made with garlic and tomatillos. Served with Chorizo Verde and finished with a fried egg, crema and lime wedge. This dish is the real deal. You could eat this for any meal and be happy (and luckier than most of the world).

Pork Shoulder

Let the feast begin

Finished Product

The third course was as impressive visually as it was tasting. It was seriously difficult to stop eating. A huge, roasted bone-in Berkshire pork shoulder served with corn tortillas and an array of toppings and salsas. Pipian Rojo, Pickled Peppers, Adobo Salsa, Chile de Arbol Salsa, Pickled Red Onions, Queso Fresco, Avocado, Pineapple and Habanero hot sauce were among the choices. 

Strawberry Bavarian

The Strawberry Bavarian was the final course. A frozen whipped dessert on top of a wafer with dulce de leche sauce and raspberries. I wasn't terribly crazy about this one. No doubt it was good and a nice ending to the meal but the gargantuan amount of food and wine that was previously consumed didn't leave much room.

The Verdict

Really one of the most interesting and enjoyable dining experiences I've had in Kansas City. Not only was the food outstanding but the overall experience was almost hard to describe. To watch a chef, who really enjoys what he's doing, cook for the masses is exciting. But to then have the opportunity to pick his brain about his food and his vision for the future of his restaurant is special. Chef Ryan is a straight shooter who doesn't sugar coat things but it's somewhat refreshing because you know that it stems from a passion that he has for cooking.

As far as seeking out Port Fonda, you will usually find them in the Rieger parking lot at the corner of 20th and Main Street on the weekend and on 23rd and Washington/Cesar Chavez during the week.  

Food: 9 / 10

Atmosphere: 9 / 10

Service: 9.5 / 10

Port Fonda

LINK

Lidia's

The Place

Lidia Bastianich knows Italian food.  Real Italian food.  In fact, she may be the foremost female authority on Italian cooking in the entire world.  And lucky for us Kansas Citians, she graced us with her culinary expertise by opening a restaurant in the heart of the city.  While her restaurant has been open since 1997, people still routinely flock to this place located in the Crossroads district.  Why?  Because the food is consistently good. 

The restaurant is in a historic former railroad building known as the Freight House.  While the high ceilings provide an open air feel, there are lots of tables in the dining area.  Almost too many, in fact.  We were sat in a high traffic area where busboys, waiters and guests endlessly passed our table. It was actually quite distracting and took something away from the meal.  I really like the architecture, design and feel of the Freight House, but the multitude and close proximity of tables detracts from the atmosphere.

The Food



Quaglia al Mattone

Our first course was the Quaglia al Mattone, which is the quail version of "chicken under a brick." Roasted quail paired with fresh corn, grilled figs and a balsamic glaze.

A great summer appetizer.  You can't go wrong with fresh corn.  The sweet, crispy corn pairs well with the velvety, rich  figs. And the quail was beautifully roasted.

Wild Boar Ravioli with Rosemary Infused Sauce

Being from Kansas City, I've eaten my fair share of BBQ, especially pork.  So a wild boar filled ravioli calls my name.  In so many Italian restaurants, when you order ravioli, you receive a massive serving of pasta coated with canned tomato sauce.  Not here. 

Five sand-dollar sized ravioli with a duo of light tomato and rosemary-infused citrus sauces adorn the pasta.  Lots of depths of flavor here.  The boar is rich but offset by the delicate sauces.

Pasta Tasting

One of the best offerings on the menu is the three-course all-you-can-eat pasta tasting, which changes nightly. The tasting included: Fettuccine with traditional bolognese, Ziti with Salsa Crudo and Cheese stuffed Ravioli with Basil Pesto.

The Ziti with Salsa Crudo was our favorite.  It is paired with an "uncooked" sauce (hence the name Salsa Crudo) consisting of  fresh basil, tomatoes and garlic. It made for a great summer pasta.

The Verdict

Though known for BBQ, Kansas City has an abundance of great Italian joints.  And Lidia's is one of the best. Since it has been around for a while, it sometimes slips my mind when deciding on dining out.  However, I'm always pleasantly reassured as to why it is always busy.  The authentic Italian food that Lidia's serves is reason enough to return.  And return I will.

Food: 8.0 / 10

Atmosphere: 6.5 / 10

Service: 7.5 / 10

Lidia's

101 W. 22nd Street

Kansas City, Missouri 64108

816.221.3722

http://www.lidias-kc.com/